Thursday, April 3, 2008
To find out what make-up looks we should be channelling this season, we tracked down MAC Cosmetics senior make-up artist Nicola Burford and L'Oréal Paris make-up director Rae Morris.
1. Statement lips
Boldly coloured lips like those at Ruffian and Ossie Clark are big news this season. "Lips are either mute and nude in colour or they're all-out bright," says Morris. For a "seriously uninhibited lip", Burford suggests chocolate and cherry tones. "Ruby, garnet and currant also work beautifully," she says. If you're nervous about going super bold, Burford says to "apply bright shades as a stain instead". To achieve the berry-stained pouts at Chloe, Donna Karen and Carolina Herrera, concentrate lipstick in the centre of the lip before blending the colour out towards the lip line using a lip brush.
2. Eyeliner
From '80s rock to modern Geisha girl, eyeliner is a must-buy this autumn. "Liquid eyeliner is everywhere," says Morris. "Try using a pencil instead of liquid eyeliner to soften a really graphic look," says Burford. "Or soften the edges of liquid liner with an eye shadow." Alternatively, downsize. "An overly exaggerated catwalk shape can be reproduced as a 'mini–me' version," says Burford. "For example, a square, box-shape liner can be translated into a blunt edge rather than the usual tapered tail."
3. Eye-popping colour
Shades of grey and silver, glitter-encrusted or full-throttle hues, eyes have gone all-out. "Bold eyes look really effective as an evening or party make-up," says Burford, who warns against trying statement eyes during the day. To channel the '70s and '80s rock and disco-inspired looks at Ellie Saab, Zac Posen and Salvatore Ferragamo, try shades of grey, blue and teal. If you're new to colour, Burford suggests trying softer bronzes and burgundy shades. "They're a great alternative if you're shy of bold colour," she says. Or add just a pop of colour to your usual smoky eye. "Try a hint of coral on grey eye shadow or a pop of green on bronze," advises Burford.
4. Pretty flush
Glowing, flushed skin is a must this cool season. To achieve the luminous complexions seen on the Missoni and Bill Blass runways, Burford suggests using a luminiser under and over foundation. Morris advises swapping foundation for mineral powder. "Mineral powder is non-irritating so it's perfect for sensitive skin and gives a really polished look to the complexion," she says.
5.Wow brows
Stop over-plucking; thickly defined brows are a mainstay. "Big brows are important this season," agrees Morris. But don't think you can let them go altogether — this season's sleek and sophisticated brows require careful grooming, so visit your beautician for a professional brow-shaping. "And invest in a brow pencil in a similar shade to your natural brows to give them fullness and fill in any gaps," suggests Morris.
