Tips & tricks

What makes you look old?

Thursday, April 16, 2009

New research confirms that to look young, women really do have to choose between their bum and their face.

We're in the midst of an anti-ageing revolution (we're talking to you, Botox) and yet the women who use and misuse these treatments aren't necessarily looking any younger. That's because a face that looks young, or good for its age, is influenced by many factors and not just crow's-feet or wrinkles. A major new study published this month has uncovered what a few of these are.

Age inducer one: thin is definitely not in
Researchers at Case Western Reserve University in the US studied 200 identical twins over a two-year period. By observing women with the same genetic make-up they were able to properly observe the environmental factors that influence ageing. Their key finding was that for women over the age of 40 the secret to a youthful face is fat, specifically fat in the middle of the face — or plump, full cheeks.

"A youthful face is a round face. A feminine face has a wide, clear forehead, wide-set eyes, full cheeks and a firm jawline," explains Dr Gabrielle Caswell from the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australia. Fat loss in the face can mean that "when a woman gets older she can start looking more like a man", Dr Caswell adds.

A woman being aged by her slim physique is a phenomenon that's been noted before. Hollywood star Courteney Cox describes the dilemma: "To get your bottom half to be the right size, your face may have to be a little gaunt." And exercise junkie Madonna famously noted that she's chosen to have a firm butt at the expense of her face. No kidding, Madge!

Naturally there is a balance to be struck — maintaining a BMI of between 20 and 25 is the best way to manage both a healthy body and a youthful face. And abandoning the yoyo diet cycle is also crucial as repeated weight loss and gain causes the supporting facial muscles to weaken, leading to jowls and deep nose to mouth lines.

Age inducer two: stress fest
To look young it's not enough to just maintain a healthy weight. Stress and emotional hardship can contribute to how aged a woman looks. "A twin who is divorced appears about 1.7 years older than the twin who is not divorced," says Dr Bahaman Guyuron, who lead the research at Case Western Reserve University. Similarly, the use of antidepressant medication also aged those in the study who took them, compared to their twin who did not.

But divorce doesn't have to leave you looking haggard. Experts are quick to point out that it's not because there are stressful events in your life that you will age, it's how you handle these events. And given stress has implications for a range health issues, managing it effectively has more than just cosmetic benefits.

Age inducer three: diet deficiency
The findings on facial fat and stress add to what we already know about nutrition when it comes to ageing. "When we don't get enough protein and we eat a diet of high-GI carbohydrates, our features take on a soft, doughy appearance. The sharp contoured cheekbones and crisp jawline begin to lose definition," says Dr Nicholas Perricone, author of 7 Secrets to Beauty, Health & Longevity ($35, Allen & Unwin).

Dr Caswell notes that dietary supplements may help change the structure of the face. "Women can do a lot for themselves by just taking fish oil at home. Omega-3s, [omega-]6s, evening primrose oil and lineoic acid are going to help in building the cellular architecture," she says.

Age inducer four: fun in the sun
Most women have accepted the sun is the skin's public enemy number one. "In Australia, I find that a lot of women's skin is 10 to 15 years older than the person," says Dr Caswell. A wrinkle-free face — even with full cheeks — will count for nothing if the surface of your skin gives away your time on this planet. Sunscreen is therefore the best — and probably the cheapest — anti-ageing cream on the market. "Use it every day, no matter what!" says dermatologist Dr Leslie Baumann.

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